THE WHITE LANTERN -HOIAN RESTAURANTS

This is a very popular tour group stop, so try to get there early (or late); if you see buses parked out front, head for the hills. Everyone's here for good reason, though: delicious, affordable Vietnamese cuisine and a mellow atmosphere. Strumming guitarists roam the tables playing old Beatles melodies and some nice local numbers, and the large open area on the first floor, with long tables for groups, and the second-floor balcony space are dimly lit and romantic. Owned by the same folks that run Nhu Y, above, this is a slightly upscale version. Set menus are a great bet; I had a fine meal of a delicate won-ton soup, spring rolls, and chicken in a light curry. It's a good find just north of the town center.

The White Lantern