Things to do

Sapa is a charming mountain town, surrounded by picturesque mountains and rice terraces. Great views of the area can be had (weather permitting) from the nearby hills. One of these has been built up into a tourist attraction (Ham Rong mountain) with various gardens (orchid, European), ethnic minority dance performance areas, viewpoints, and restaurants. It's a short walk south from the central square and then up some stairs. Entrance is 30,000 dong.

While walking in the mountains you will encounter many hill tribes such as the Red Zao tribe.

Top things to do:

• Sit on the balcony of a hotel overlooking the valleys drinking a beer at sunset - sublime!

• The ethnic village of Cat Cat is a few kilometers' walk from Sapa. You're not likely to get lost - just walk down the road out of Sapa, which should be marked on maps, and after a while you'll find a path which descends the hill to your left. This path runs through the village before climbing another hill back to the road. This walk provides a good chance to observe Vietnamese farming and farm animals, and there are excellent views. The walk back up can be difficult (it is steep in parts) but once you get back onto the road there are plenty of enterprising locals ready to take you back to Sapa on motorbikes.

• Sign-up for a trekking trip that enables you to stay overnight at one of the villages. The homestay experience is not uncomfortable (no water heating system though) and an enriching one.

• Do ensure that the US dollars you bring along to Sapa are as new and crisp as possible. It is very hard to obtain the local currency with "older" US dollars. Some hotels will reject the money exchange request.

Buy:

• It is possible to change money, traveler cheques and get cash advance on credit cards at the bigger hotels in Sapa. Furthermore, there are ATMs on the main street but they only accept VISA and not Mastercard or Maestro. So you might be better off with stocking up on cash before heading to Sapa. The nearest ATM accepting all major cards is in Lao Cai.

• The usual endless supply of tourist trinkets is available at every turn.

• The various markets sell clothes, blankets, etc. with colorful designs traditional to the various ethnic minorities in the town. Take note that the dye used to give a blue color stains the fingers (and not only the fingers) - which is why many of the women who make them have darkened fingertips. When you wash these clothes the colour will flow off.

• Marijuana and opium are sold commonly, yet discreetly, by minority men and women on the streets of Sapa. If you decide to indulge, understand that the Vietnamese legal system has little respect for the rights of the accused.